Author Archives | Shannon

Southeast Asia Itinerary…Halfway There

Southeast Asia PlanningIn less than two weeks we’ll be touching down in Bangkok, the beginning of a four-and-a-half-month stay in Southeast Asia and our first visit to the continent. It’s exciting (and slightly nerve-wracking) to think about spending such a lengthy amount of time in a place that will be so different to us in just about every respect—language, culture, customs, cuisine.

In Europe, we moved every three to four days on average, but we plan to slow down our pace in Asia. Getting from place to place will take longer, plus we want to make sure we have unscripted sightseeing time to soak up the atmosphere in each locale.

We’ve also learned a thing or two about our style of travel over the years, and that has colored our itinerary to some extent. One place we’re skipping this trip is Sapa in Vietnam. It looks amazing, but the only way to get there is by overnight bus followed by another overnight bus on the return trip. That’s simply too much travel pain for a couple of days in a destination.

We nonetheless hear a lot of folks recommending traveling overnight, especially in this part of the world where distances between cities are long and transportation is slow. And it is true that taking an overnight bus or train gets you to your destination during what would otherwise be downtime and saves a night’s lodging cost in the process. But those benefits have never been worth the trade offs for us. In our experience overnight transport always costs us more time than it saves.

The day of travel we get kicked out of our hotel room in the morning and then have to wait around for a train, bus, or plane in the evening. Theoretically we could use those ten or twelve hours to sightsee, but in practice we never do. We always find that by then we’ve seen everything we wanted to see in the area. And because we never like leaving our computers and other gear in the hotel’s storage room or at the front desk, we usually end up spending all those hours babysitting our backpacks.

Once on the train we don’t really sleep. We get to our destination overnight but we’re pretty well wrecked the next day. So the overnight train that was supposed to save us a day’s travel ends up costing us two. We’re going to avoid them whenever we can.

So far we’ve planned out the first half of our itinerary from November 4 through January 16. That still leaves two months until our flight out of Bangkok on March 17. We might hit the Thailand beaches, meander to Malaysia or Myanmar, or bound over to Bali or Borneo. Suggestions on where else in Southeast Asia we should venture? Please give us a shout. We’d love to have your input.

Here’s what we’ve decided on so far:

  • Chiang Rai, Thailand
  • Chiang Mai, Thailand (including a night in an Elephant sanctuary)
  • Luang Prabang, Laos
  • Hanoi, Vietnam (including a night on Halong Bay)
  • Hoi An, Vietnam
  • Hue, Vietnam
  • Da Nang, Vietnam
  • Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
  • Phnom Penh, Cambodia
  • Siem Reap, Cambodia
  • Bangkok, Thailand 
  • Thailand beaches and south to Malaysia?

Famous Flora: Monet’s Garden

Monet's Garden Bridge Giverny

After seeing countless renditions of Monet’s water lilies on museum walls, we finally laid our eyes on the real thing.

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Like Shooting Chateaux in the Loire

Chenonceau

Château de Chenonceau

With hundreds of châteaux dotting France’s sprawling Loire Valley, finding one is easier than shooting fish in a barrel. Choosing which of the magnificent dwellings to visit, and which to leave for another time, is a far harder task. Here’s how we managed to decide.

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French Lessons Included

La Maréchalerie

A side of French lessons came with the morning meal at La Maréchalerie, a bed-and-breakfast in the Loire Valley.

We don’t often talk about lodging places here on EverywhereOnce because so often they’re just not that memorable. We generally choose basic places to sleep and shower and to use as a base to explore an area. But staying at La Maréchalerie was almost as much of an experience as touring the surrounding Loire Valley.

Our stay began with a warm welcome from our host, Danny, who immediately offered us coffee, tea or a glass of locally produced wine. One glass of wine turned into several as Danny engaged us for over an hour, taking a genuine interest in our travels as well as sharing his near encyclopedic knowledge about the region and its history. Slightly inebriated we eventually headed to our room, clutching a specially-created binder burgeoning with maps and other information for crafting an itinerary in the Loire.

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Finding the “Real” France, Online

Country guesthouse in France

“How did you find this place? This is the real France.”

A fellow lodger at a guest house in the French countryside north of Cognac seemed surprised to find us at the breakfast table. His tone was curious, with a shade of condescension, as he asked how we had possibly found this charming family farmhouse in a tiny village that had no obvious tourist enticements.

He was there by happenstance. An Englishman on a solo walking trek to Spain, he had injured himself the day before and decided to find lodging in the area and recoup for the evening.

We were there by design. I wasn’t sure how to break it to him, but the out-of-the-way farmhouse in the real France is listed on Booking.com.

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