Category ArchiveEverywhere Once |

Maid of the Monsoon

by Brian on August 29, 2011 in Ontario

What a difference a day makes. With the early morning sun shining, and the crowds from the prior evening mostly dispersed, Niagara Falls returned to its natural magnificence. Its power evident from the plumes of mist rising far above the 170 foot falls and dropping on us like rain whenever the wind shifts in our direction. To really feel their might, though, we needed to get even closer.

Fortunately, we can do just that with a Maid of the Mist boat tour. Departing every 15 minutes, the 80 foot long vessels sail directly into the basin below Horseshoe Falls. Getting closer requires a barrel and suicidal tendencies. Having neither, we board the next available ship and don thin plastic rain ponchos as we stake a spot along the port-side railing.

Within minutes we’re pulling away from the dock and charting a course past the America Falls. It’s immediately clear this tour is a good choice. Everything is more impressive from the river. The falls appear higher, broader, louder and more spectacular in every way. We watch as glassy emerald water, brightly illuminated by the rising sun, rushes past the precipice and transforms into a frothy curtain of cloud.

As we sail past, daylight wanes. The wind picks up and the gentle mist turns to a steady rain. A storm, of sorts, is moving in and getting worse. Our thin rain ponchos flap wildly around us, offering scant protection from the gale. Soon, the entire world is reduced to varying shades of grey. This is no ordinary squall. Elsewhere the sun still beats strongly on the town of Niagara Falls. But here, in the basin of Horseshoe Falls, a hurricane rages.

Barely audible beneath the roar of falling water, 700 horses of engine power labor against the currents. I shield my eyes from the driving rain and steal a glimpse of the cascade that now surrounds us on three sides. A stationary tidal-wave occupies my entire field of vision. The end of the world can’t be more dramatic.

The entire voyage lasts a mere thirty minutes, but it’s long enough to see, and experience, the falls up close. It’s also long enough to get completely drenched. This is one trip we wouldn’t want to take in the chilly off-season. It’s also one we wouldn’t want to miss.

Misfire

by Brian on August 26, 2011 in Ontario

“I waited all night for this, and it was over in five minutes?” You’d think that after all of these years Shannon would be used to that; Read More…

Bike Montreal

by Brian on August 23, 2010 in Montreal

With 600 kilometers of bike trails (that’s about 370 miles for us metric-impaired Americans) Montreal is a tremendously bike friendly city. They’ve even imported Europe’s Bixi bike rental system, which is a great and inexpensive way to get around town. So it’s not surprising that some of our best biking thus far took place just a few kilometers from central Montreal on Îles-de-Boucherville.

The national park is comprised of five small islands in the Saint Lawrence River. A free ferry and several short bridges connect a 10 km gravel bike route that circles the island. Several other paths and slightly more rugged hiking trails branch out in various directions. Although just minutes from the city, the island feels remote, with spectacular water views and oceans of golden rod on either side of the trail.

Tahitian Sunset and Apricot Nectar

by Brian on August 20, 2010 in Montreal

We hope to one day take in a Tahitian Sunset while partaking of Apricot Nectar, but for today at least, those are just some of the colorful names given to the 10,000 roses that populate the Montreal Botanical Gardens; many of which were still in bloom when we visited in mid-August. Not merely a rose garden, or even just a flower patch, the 185-acre “jardin botanique” includes ponds adorned with water lilies, winding forested paths, and a re-creation of a mountainous Alpine garden, one of 30 or so themed oases displaying plants from around the world.

What most captured our attention was a locked gate in the Japanese Garden (above). Really, we thought, there must be something good in there if they have to keep it under lock and key. No one was around to explain, so we continued on. But curiosity reigned, and eventually we circled back to the elusive locked gate. It turns out they were trying to hide a Japanese tea garden from us. They only allow ten people at a time in the garden because of the fragility of the plants, and it has to be seen with a guide.

During the 10-minute tour, we learned the tea garden’s purpose. It’s a transitional space to clear your mind before taking part in the tea ceremony. Actions like crossing stepping stones and kneeling down to wash your hands at a tsukubai (basin), set against the backdrop of the tranquil and carefully designed garden, are meant to help you leave the outside world behind and find serenity.

The other highlight of the day was the Chinese Garden, modeled on the private gardens of the Ming Dynasty and the largest of its kind outside China. Paths lead around “Dream Lake,” linking seven vibrant red pavilions (including one where we enjoyed a picnic lunch) and leading to a waterfall, a bonsai display, and beds of blooming pink lotus flowers.

So can you have wanderlust while you’re already traveling? China and Japan have officially moved up on my places-to-visit list, along with some Tahitian sun and apricot nectar.

This Is More Like It

by Brian on August 19, 2010 in Montreal

With a casual glance one could easily mistake the exterior of Notre Dame de Montreal for its somewhat larger, and far more famous, sister in Paris. With twin bell towers emerging from a rectangular, two-story base and three arched entryways, the cathedrals are practically identical. You almost expect to see Quasimodo running about the Gothic campaniles.

But the spectacular interior is influenced by a completely different Paris cathedral, Sainte Chapelle. Chapelle’s influence is seen in the blue and gold color scheme, and particularly in the gilded stenciling in the arches and on the columns. Intricate wood carving adorns every inch of the interior. You can walk around and study the detail for hours. Or simply click on the photo below for a closer look.