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On the Catwalk
We knew we weren’t in Central America any longer the moment we first set foot on the rock-solid hanging walkway of the Catwalk National Scenic Trail in New Mexico’s Gila National Forest. As much as the suspension bridges reminded us of those we had traversed in Guatemala’s Reserva Natural Atitlan, the absence of any obvious structural deterioration assured us we were firmly in the safety obsessed U.S. of A.
The “catwalk” itself follows the route of a water pipeline that was built in the 1800s to serve the local mining industry. Considered an engineering feat of its day, the pipeline required constant repair. Workers who walked along the elevated pipe dubbed it the catwalk, a name that has stuck to this day.
The original pipeline is gone, along with the mining industry. In its place the Civilian Conservation Corps built this hiking trail through Whitewater Canyon. With its steel girder walkway clinging to the steep granite canyon walls that once hid Geronimo and later Butch Cassidy, the mile-long trail is one of the most unique we’ve encountered.
Like the Gila Cliff Dwellings, the Catwalk trail is in a remote part of Southwestern New Mexico. We found quaint Silver City to be a good base for exploring both attractions.
Editorial Note: The Catwalk Recreation area closed on May 26,2012, due to the Whitewater-Baldy Fire that is currently menacing the Gila Forest. The Catwalk is expected to remain closed “for some time” but, with any luck, will escape damage and reopen soon.
Gila Cliff Dwellings: Cave living at its finest
If Bandelier National Monument introduced us to New Mexico apartment living circa 1300, Gila Cliff Dwellings showed us the McMansions of the era. Compared to the cramped cubbyholes of Bandelier, the Gila residences are huge – more than large enough to accommodate groups of people standing upright. In all, the ancient Mogollon people constructed 46 stone masonry rooms in five large caves.
The site’s remote location, deep in the Gila wilderness and a two hour drive from the nearest town, Silver City, has helped prevent the theft and vandalism that has plagued similar historic sites. The deep cave structures, and dry climate, have also protected the Cliff Dwellings; preserving, for example, wood beams that were originally cut in 1275.
Touring the Gila Cliff Dwellings requires a fairly easy one mile round trip hike, with a modest 200 foot elevation gain. Expect to spend about an hour exploring the area. We have it on good authority that the longish drive to reach Gila is enhanced with a high performance rental car.
Upon Further Reflection
We lead pretty good lives, so there isn’t much to lament. In fact, I often think that if a Genie were to appear offering me the chance to magically change anything in my past, I’d have to politely decline the invitation (politely, because it’s never a good idea to piss-off an all-powerful Genie).
After all, everything in my past leads to this present, which I happen to think is pretty great. If I made different choices along the way, I wouldn’t be where I am today. And who’s to say that would be better? I happen to think it probably wouldn’t be.
None of that, however, prevented me from gritting my teeth in regret at having traded in our old Audi as I tried to navigate our Jeep through the crazy winding roads that took us from Silver City, NM, to Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument.
Every hand-over-hand turn screamed for an automobile with tighter cornering and better downshifting ability. I knew I was overtaxing the Jeep’s abilities when I started to smell burning breaks. With great sadness, I had to ease back on the throttle.
Meantime, our iPod random shuffle kept selecting classical music, making the entire episode feel like a Lexus commercial. I’d like to think the iPod missed our old car too. More likely, it was just mocking me.
Meet Brian and Shannon
Fulltime wanderers since 2010, Brian & Shannon are traveling the world on a quest to see everything there is to see . . . at least once.
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