Cordoba Highlights: A Mosque-Cathedral and a Microbrewery

Cordoba Spain

To the victor go the spoils…and the right to re-decorate.

In the site where Cordoba’s Mezquita now stands there was once a Roman temple, then a Visigothic cathedral and then a mosque. Rather than re-do the entire edifice in the 13th century when Christian crusaders took over the town, they left the majority of the mosque intact but made a significant alteration. They constructed a Catholic church in its center.

Cordoba Mezquita Catholic Chapel

The melding of the distinct architectural styles makes the Mezquita an intriguingly visual place—entirely different from the more than a hundred other religious buildings we’ve seen in our travels. The most striking feature are the red-and-white arches that fan out overhead, row after row, giving the place an almost festive atmosphere. The Islamic ornamentation, heavy on gold mosaic and ornamental tiling, is the more interesting, but it’s hard to miss the showy cathedral in the heart of the Mezquita. Constructed over a 250-year period, the bright, extravagant space features gothic, renaissance, and baroque architecture.

Cordoba Mezquita Interior

We expected to be impressed by the Mezquita, hardly a surprise since it’s one of the city’s highly touted main draws. But our other favorite place in Cordoba we found by happy accident. While strolling around, we spied a sandwich board with the magic word “microbrewery” on it.

Cordoba Mezquita Candy Cane Arches

Cordoba’s Mezquita candy cane arches

Seeking out craft beers was a favorite pastime during the four years we traveled the U.S., from Pensacola Bay Brewery’s tart, flavorful ESB to the decadent S’more Stout we sampled at Base Camp Brewing in Portland, Oregon. Before we arrived in Spain, I might have said we were beer snobs. Light, yellowish beers weren’t something we drank when there were so many varieties either aged in sherry casks or bursting with hot chili pepper or infused with spruce tips or beckoning us with some other innovation just begging to be tried.

Cordoba Mezquita Moorish Architecture and Christian Crosses

Christian crosses under Islamic inspired arches

Which makes it all the more surprising how quickly we warmed to the Spanish tradition of the caña, a small glass of draft beer consumed in the afternoon or early evening. You don’t order a beer by brand name but simply request a caña. Many tabernas typically had only one beer on tap, and without fail they were mild pilsners, served very cold and usually with a complimentary tapa. Given how taken we were with the tasty tradition, we almost completely forgot about the litany of specialty beers that litter the States.

A typical boringly delicious Spanish caña.

A typical boringly delicious Spanish caña.

Then, fickle and just as fast, all thoughts of cañas vanished the moment we found Cordoba’s microbrewery, Cervezas Califa. The oversized menu on the wall listing their artisan offerings was written in Spanish, but using standard microbrewery logic, I figured the darkest beer on the menu would be listed last. That’s how I ended up with the Sultana, a chocolate-and-coffee-infused stout, while Brian opted for the needs-no-translation IPA.

Cervezas Califa, Cordoba Microbrewer

Some aspects of the afternoon beer-drinking tradition were familiar. It was served icy cold with a tapa on the side. We just had bigger, more flavorful glasses of the stuff to savor.

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8 Comments on “Cordoba Highlights: A Mosque-Cathedral and a Microbrewery”

  1. Global Roamer May 30, 2014 at 8:56 am #

    Reblogged this on FXHQ.

    Like

  2. digger666 May 30, 2014 at 10:21 am #

    Reblogged this on digger666.

    Like

  3. Bonnie May 30, 2014 at 11:19 am #

    You might enjoy reading The Ornament of the World by Maria Rosa Menocal. It’s the history of Jews/Moors/Christians living together in Spain in the 11th thru 14th centuries. Fascinating history that your pictures made come alive for me! I did a review on my book reading log http://roomswithwindows.blogspot.com/2014/05/the-ornament-of-wolrd-maria-rosa-menocal.html

    Like

  4. Pat Bean May 30, 2014 at 3:17 pm #

    This blog earned a Bean’s Pat as blog pick of the day. Check it out at: http://patbean.wordpress.com

    Like

  5. allisonmohr May 31, 2014 at 12:13 pm #

    You are making me want to go to Spain. It’s unbelievably beautiful.

    Like

Trackbacks/Pingbacks

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    […] in Europe. Like other places we’ve seen in Spain, such as Seville’s Alcazar and Cordoba’s Mezquita, the Alhambra is a fusion of Islamic and Christian influences, representative of the various […]

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  2. Things I Miss About the U.S. | Everywhere Once - February 23, 2015

    […] The biggest surprise in this regard was the U.K. We spent nearly five months traveling through England, and while it’s a great country for sightseeing it’s a hugely disappointing one for beer. It’s not like we didn’t try. We quaffed pints in centuries-old pubs and had our fill of new-brews at modern beer festivals. I think that, maybe, we had three really good beers our entire time in Europe. And one of those was in Spain. […]

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    […] learned from this map that last year we unwittingly toured the Royal Palace of Dorne, crossed the Bridge of Volantis, and even made a stop in […]

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